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The dreaded melasma - so many of us deal with it, and so many of us are confused AF on how to even deal with it!
What is Melasma?
Simply put, melasma is dark spots on the skin. Usually they show up on the forehead, cheeks, upper lip, and chin. And usually they are symmetrical - so if they are on one side of your face they are likely the same on the other side of your face. Usually they are larger patches of skin, not small freckle-like spots.
What causes melasma?
Melasma, unlike hyperpigmentation, is caused my hormonal fluctuations. Sometimes it is referred to as the mask of pregnancy, because a lot of women experience melasma while pregnant, due to increased hormone activity. Oral contraceptives can also cause melasma. But one thing that is hugely important to note, is that melasma is worsened (drastically) by the sun and heat exposure to the skin!
Because melasma is caused by internal factors, and worsened by the sun (which is all around us at all times), it can be a super tricky condition to treat. The best option to start with is to see a doctor to discuss your hormones and see if there is a way to get them to a more balanced state.
There are also lots of options for treatments in a dermatology office, and of course there are TONS of at home skincare products to combat those dark spots.
Here are some common ingredients used to treat melasma at home:
Hydroquinone: this the most common ingredient that is prescribed by dermatologists to treat melasma, because it WORKS so well. It is essentially a bleaching cream. It is also a very controversial product because it has been shown in some studies to be carcinogenic at high amounts. The general consensus in the US is that it is safe to use in small quantities, and the danger only comes from extreme overuse. This ingredient has been banned in Europe for years, and is being investigated by the FDA (for the past few years) to evaluate safety in the US. Do with this information what you will, and make a decision that is best for you and your lifestyle.
Vitamin C and antioxidants: these are superstar ingredients for not only treating melasma, but helping with anti-aging in general. Vitamin C is extremely brightening and can be found in multiple forms to suit the sensitivity level of your skin. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals which are responsible for premature aging and inflammation in the skin.
Licorice root extract: this is a more 'natural' (for lack of a better word) ingredient that is a melanin inhibitor - meaning it blocks new melanin from coming to the surface of your skin. This is obviously beneficial for someone who struggles with pigment issues because it can even out the melanin production in your skin.
Kojic/Azeleic/Glycolic Acids: these are amazing acids that provide exfoliating and brightening properties. They are strong active products so use these sparingly to avoid over-exfoliation and irritation to the skin.
Retinoids: One of my favorite anti-aging and brightening ingredients. Retinoids help to regulate and speed up your cell turnover, which allows old pigmented skin to be removed while making way for new healthy skin cells.
SPF: This one is a no-brainer and a MUST!! As I mentioned, Melasma is worsened by the sun so you MUST be using an SPF every single day, no matter if you are inside all day or if it is raining outside. There is no argument on this one. If you aren't able to commit to wearing an SPF every single day, then I don't recommend using any of the ingredients listed above, because they will make you more sensitive to the sun, which in turn will make your melasma worse if you are not protecting your skin from the sun every single day.
Some of my favorite pigment correcting products are:
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