Collagen is such a hot word in skincare and a very sought after ingredient. To cut straight to the point, I do NOT think that collagen is a 'necessary' part of a well-rounded routine and I don't think it produces the benefits that a lot of brands tout in their collagen products.
So let's talk about what it is, what it does, and if it can be useful in your routine:
What is collagen? Collagen is created by fibroblasts in your skin and is the protein that is responsible for making your skin look plump, firm, and youthful. As we age, our collagen decreases. This is why babies are so much more smooth and plump looking compared to adults (in addition to a few other things) - they are filled to the brim with collagen! Once we reach our 20s, we lose about 1% of our collagen per year. Think about that - by the time we are in our 40s we have lost about 20% of our collagen. W. T. F. not chill.
So it's no wonder collagen products are priced extremely high and fly off the shelves, we all want it and we all need it! But, I hate to burst anyone's bubble, but those expensive collagen creams aren’t doing much for you. There, unfortunately, have been no scientific studies that prove the efficacy of topical application of collagen. One of my theories on this is that collagen is housed in the dermis of the skin, and our topical skincare products only reach the top few layers of our epidermis, so these products aren't penetrating nearly deep enough to even reach the area of the skin where we need the collagen. On the bright side, collagen applied topically is a great skin smoother and does have benefits as far as skin texture goes! So if you are a dry skin type and are looking for smoothness and suppleness to your skin, definitely check out a collagen cream for that! But bottom line: don't spend the last of your savings on a collagen cream - it is NOT the fountain of youth. Trust me, I wish it was too, but it’s not.
I can hear the question in your mind already - what about collagen supplements? Unfortunately I am not a doctor, so I can't really speak to this. However, I have heard that the word on the street is that there are no studies showing the efficacy of ingesting collagen and improvement in the collagen of the skin. The jury is out, so do your own research and make an educated choice.
So now the big questions are - how do we protect the collagen we have, and what products or treatments will help us gain back some of that lost collagen?
How do we protect our precious, precious collagen?
- Collagen is a tricky little thing, and one of the most important parts of healthy and youthful-looking skin. Free radicals created by sun damage wreak havoc on our skin's
natural collagen (not to mention elastin as well, which is the yin to collagen's yang as far as youthfulness goes). So if there is one thing I recommend it is to wear sunscreen every single day. Even if you are inside all day, you still get UV exposure through windows so I don't
want to hear the excuses - just wear the damn sunscreen! Along with sunscreen, having a well-rounded skincare routine that includes antioxidants and retinoids will be immensely helpful in protecting your collagen and keeping your skin looking young. Prevention is key here, because protecting your current stash of collagen is a lot easier and less expensive than treatments to reverse it. But I'm serious, if you're not using SPF then you might as well not use your antioxidant or retinol serums either. SPF is the game-changer. Additionally, I hope this goes without saying, but do not smoke!! Smoking cigarettes is also a huge assault on the skin. It literally asphyxiates your skin cells and leads to rapid premature aging. So just don't.
What products or treatments will help us gain back some of that lost collagen?
- So the good news is that there are lots of professional treatments that can address the loss of collagen! The deal with collagen is that it depletes as we age, and will never regenerate on its own, BUT, under the right circumstances fibroblasts will activate to create new collagen when the skin is damaged. This needs to be an extremely controlled process, which is why you must see a professional for this. Depending on your skin type, skin conditions, etc. your esthetician can make a recommendation on treatments to help you. Some of these will include lasers, strong chemical peels, micro-needling, etc. But there are lots of options, so this is a great thing!
The bottom line (TLDR): there is nothing wrong with collagen-infused products, however, I would spend my money on other products (like serums and retinoids) before buying an expensive collagen cream. See your esthetician, dermatologist, or plastic surgeon for professional treatments to help regenerate your skin's natural collagen.
Collagen is a tricky little thing, and one of the most important parts of healthy and youthful-looking skin. I hope this has helped you understand a bit more about collagen as a structure of the skin and as a topical product. Below are some of my favorite products to prevent loss of collagen - an SPF, antioxidant, and retinol.
Xoxo, Lauren
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